Friday 27 May 2011

Kernow and South West

Signed up for this online late one Saturday night after a glass of wine too many. However am now going to be a DNS (Did Not Start) as can feel a cold coming on and don't fancy endless hills for two days. Also I want to be sure to pre-register for Paris Brest Paris which opens on Saturday at midnight for those mere mortals who only did a 200km last season and if I'm on the road I may miss my chance.

In order to add interest to the enrolment, the Audax Club Parisien (ACP), organising body of PBP, have got a system whereby they allow people to register in advance if they can prove they are capable riders, with those who did the longest rides being able to do so considerably in advance - i.e. if you did a 600 last year you could have registered at the beginning of April. Audax UK has about 350 places for PBP and the majority of those have already gone to people who went considerably longer than 200km last season, so I want to be sure to reserve my place tomorrow. Despite assurances that anyone wanting to ride will be able to get a place, I want to be sure.

K&SW seems to be renowned as one of the all time great rides (for 'great' read 'hard') so thought it better not to enter and fail as I'm not feeling great, but to marshal my forces for next week's Denmead 600, which was the original plan anyway before the red wine intervened. So I have been a bit of a pussy and withdrawn, and hope to goodness I don't get struck down with anything serious in the next week.

Monday 23 May 2011

Denmead 400

Up at 4am to leave at 5am after the usual bowl of porridge. Made good time and got to the start at 6.45 for a 7am start.

Took it easy for the first few miles, no point in rushing. It was a beautiful morning although a little windy. Many of the usual Denmead suspects were there.

The first stage went along the prescribed Denmead route to Bishops Waltham and south of Winchester then north through Porton Down chemical warfare establishment to Amesbury. The Friar Tuck control is something of a legend in audaxing terms and they served up beans on toast in record time. Didn't stop long, about 20 minutes or so, then continued across Salisbury Plain into a headwind. I had cycled this road before when doing a trip from London to Somerset with a friend and knew what was coming. There were a few hills but the real problem was the wind. Was glad to arrive at Frome Sainsbury's for the next control and a sandwich sitting in the car park with my fellow adventurers.

Stage 3 continued in the same vein and it was a bit depressing to be pedalling hard down Cheddar Gorge. The wind was fearsome, but luckily we were shelted from it going up Shipham hill, which was not as bad as it had been when I did it in January . The turn came at Weston super Mare after about 180km, with a control in the Oxford Cafe which involved the 'chef's special' omlette; basically recycled breakfast leftovers which tried to recycle themselves again over the next few hours. It also took about 3/4 hour to arrive, which was too long.

Heading back south east we had the wind behind us and made good time to Glastonbury, then on to Somerton in the gathering darkness, to arrive at Podimore services at about 10pm. This was home territory as I fill up with petrol here on a fairly regular basis as it is only about 10 miles from the office. It tried to rain but thankfully stopped after a couple of minutes.

I pressed on alone past villages I see day in day out with work and had a scary moment when my chain stuck. I tough it might be curtains for a moment, but luckily I disengaged it and all was OK again. This stage got quite hard with a vicious climb up to Cucklington followed by another long climb up to Shaftesbury where we got off for a rest. It was now about 1.30am and the usual drunkards were asking to borrow my bike. We tried to remember where we had been and could not put a name to Weston super Mare. Fatigue was setting in.

I had been warned that this was a long stage and so it proved, continuing west of Salisbury where there was an unpleasant hill going out of Downton. Probably not too bad in daylight and early in the day, but it seemed to go on a bit. Then through the New Forest with an orange moon off to the right, and a cockerel crowing at about 4am to herald the oncoming morning.

Arrived at Ower services hoping for the traditional McDonalds chips but had to make do with a coffee from the petrol station. It was now about 5am and we pushed on - only 48km to go. The first bit from the services on the dual carriageway towards Romsey seemed harder than it did on the 300, then, after Romsey, the route retraced where we had come from the morning before. It was a strange feeling cycling along the same roads, at the same time in the morning, with the same weather, but knowing that we had been going for 24 hours.

As always, the last few km were difficult and it was good to arrive back at Denmead where I had an ice lolly at 7.15am in the morning. A local gave me a strange look and I felt like telling him what we'd all just done.

Completed my card and posted it through the door, then drove slowly to Rownhams services where I had a kip in the car, before getting home at about noon.

A great ride, good to have done it and crossed into new territory. The SR (super randonneur) series is nearly complete, just the 600 to go, which will mean qualification for the Paris Brest Paris.

Brittany and Normandy

After a very busy period at work, managed to grab 3 days off to hop accross the Channel and do some cycling in France. Left on the Sunday night on the ferry from Portsmouth to St Malo, following a very late night on the Saturday for a friend's 40th birthday.

This is the best ferry crossing as you get a decent night's sleep - the boat gets in at 8.15am, unlike the others which tend to be about 6.30am. The restaurant is good and a three course meal with wine is pretty reasonable. Managed to get in the holiday spirit with a bottle of wine, then slept well, although it was quite rough.

The day dawned bright and the sea was a deep blue. The coast road east from St Malo is beautiful; little sandy coves and rocky islands reveal themselves around every bend.



Got to Cancale by about 10am but that was too early to savour the local delicacy of oysters, so continued on towards Mont St Michel, crossing the mrshes instead of the main road. This was a good choice - no traffic and flat roads with glimpses of the Mount all the way. Fantastic.


After lunch at Beauvoir which was incredibly good value (sandwich, strawberry tart, orangina and coffee for 7 euros) the route went inland through lovely countryside where the landscape changed into the Normandy cider apple orchards with cows grazing beneath, where reminders of the local produce were never far way. Alas I had no room to buy any of these tempting foodstuffs.


As usual when cycle touring there were unexpected beautiful places around every corner, in this case the pretty town of Ducey.


My stop for the night was Domfront. Hotel was comfortable but the restaurant was closed so had to make do with the grill, which was nothing special. 147 km done.

Day 2 went through similarly lovely country all day. First stop was Bagnoles de l'Orne, a genteel spa town in a clearing in the forests where elderly invalids go to take the waters. The Belle Epoque architecture around the lake was very attractive.



Then east, passing beautiful chateaux behind gates such as the Chateau d'O.


The turning point on the route was the French National Stud, home of highly bred racehorses. Started by Napoleon to ensure a steady supply of high quality horses for his army, it is now maintained by the state and is beautifully manicured, with wonderful buildings evocative of a bygone age.




Gentle roads followed, fortunately in between the two big hills I had seen from a distance, to the old town of Falaise, where I stopped for a coffee. This was home of William the Conqueror and his castle can still be seen to this day. Continuing on the countryside got hillier as the Suisse Normande approached. On the descent to the river valley I overtook a tractor going full pelt who seemed a bit surprised to see me pass.

The Suisse Normande is a beautiful area, unspoilt and characterised by twisting roads going up the sides of hills - hence its name. There was not much traffic and this area was a delight, although hard work.


There was one last big hill then a series of typical Normandy rollers which were pretty tiring, before the descent to Aunay sur l'Orne. This is a pretty town which was completely destroyed by the Allies just after D Day to prevent a German counter attack. It has been rebuilt with great care. The hotel was in the centre and the restaurant a delight. The five course dinner started off with local foie gras, followed by a proper 'trou normande', which consisted of an apple sorbet doused in calvados. The waitress was waiting for me to tell her to stop pouring but I did not, so think I got good value. Then a local speciality 'ris de veau' - veal sweetbreads. I don't normlly like innards but this was exceptional, cooked in a rich cream sauce. I cannot remember what I had for pudding as by now my wine had taken effect, but it followed a local cheese board. 166 km today.

Day 3 started off a bit of  struggle. The legs were on strike, probably too full of calvados from the night before. I had to get to Cherbourg by 3.15pm and at first this seemed unlikely as every slight incline was a struggle. However, as with most cycling exploits, the easier times follow the hard and luckily there was a section accross the marshes where I had a good hour and covered 35km, thus making up time but as importantly getting over the bad patch and into a good rythmn. Got attacked by a suicidal dog which rushed across a main road to bark at me.

The whole area of the ride saw heavy action in WWII and reminders were everywhere, here of an officer in the Grenadier Guards.


The final 60 km were hard work across rolling country with short sharp hills which are the type I do not get on with very well. Finally, the long descent into Cherbourg arrived and I got to the ferry port at 3.14pm, with a minute to spare. The great thing about travelling by bike is that you get waved onto the ferry first and can be comfortably sitting down before the motorists come on board, having missed the queues for food and coffee. 128 km today.

A great little tour seeing some wonderful sights and unspoilt countryside, jusy right for a fairly athletic three days, which set me up nicely for the following weekend's excursion. The obligatory photo of the bike follows.